Well suited p1 - Military Transition - Military Times EDGE

Military life is fraught with uncertainties, but what to wear is not one of them. You may not like your uniform, but you don’t have to worry about coordinating color, cut and fabric.

The civilian work wardrobe, on the other hand, can be a minefield of unwritten rules, so we’ve asked some professionals to walk you through it.

Jill N. Wylot, an image consultant in Manassas, Va., gives her advice for building men’s and women’s professional wardrobes on this spread and the next. And Dick Lerner, author of the book “Dress Like the Big Fish: How To Achieve the Image You Want and the Success You Deserve,” provides a basic shopping list based on the military initial clothing allowance, about $1,500. But whatever your personal clothing allowance, Wylot recommends going to a higher-end store to get a look at the quality. “Then go wherever you can go within your budget and get as close to that as you can.”

Men

Wylot assembled a wardrobe for Sgt. Kyle Harris, a military policeman at Fort Belvoir, Va., with clothes and assistance from Jos. A. Bank, starting with the all-important interview suit.

Suits

“You want to keep it classic ... and in particular, you want a good fit,” Wylot said. Avoid double-breasted suits, and stick with two or three buttons — three if you’re full in the chest. Navy and gray — either solid or pinstripe — are good interview colors. If the sleeve drops below the wrist, or if the shoulders bunch, pay for professional alterations. Shoes should be lace-ups.

• Shopping list: Two wool suits, $250 each

Blazers, trousers

Buy a sports jacket and khaki-colored trousers for a more casual option, Wylot said. All should all be in worsted wool..

• Shopping list: Charcoal gray and taupe wool slacks, $90 each

Shirts

Stick with solid light basic colors such as white, cream, light blue or light yellow in pinpoint or broadcloth fabric. And don’t even think about short sleeves.

• Shopping list: Three cotton point collar shirts, $49 each

Ties

Wylot recommends 100 percent silk ties in basic professional colors such as burgundy, red and gray. Keep designs small and patterns consistent, such as pin dots or repeating stripes.

• Shopping list: Four silk ties, $35 each

Socks and shoes

Choose black or cordovan (a rich shade of burgundy) — or both. At least one should be wing tip or captoe lace-ups. Match your socks to either your pants or your shoes.

• Shopping list: One pair of black shoes: $140; four pairs of merino or cotton lisle socks, navy and black, $19 each

Belts

Match your belt to your shoes. Buckles should be small, the width about 1 inch.

• Shopping list: One black leather belt: $40

• Additional shopping items: Black single-breasted trench coat: $295

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Women

Women have more options, but when it comes to a professional wardrobe, they should think timeless — not trendy — and skew conservative, Wylot said. She developed a wardrobe for Army Cpl. Ashley Barraza from Fort Belvoir with clothes from Ann Taylor.

Suits

Women should buy pieces that can mix and match as separates, but like men, they should Start with a classic suit in a classic color.

• Shopping list: Two skirted or slack suits, navy and black, $325 each

Jackets, trousers, skirts

Look for colors and materials that work with each other: Every jacket should go with two bottoms — either skirts or pants — and three tops of different styles. Skirts should come to the knee or slightly below. Get as close to 100 percent wool as you can.

• Shopping list: Two pairs of wool slacks, medium gray and taupe, $110 each

Tops

“You want a very classic look, not a lot of frill and lace and sparkle,” Wylot said. “That means pointy collars, buttons down the front, a jewel neckline — more a shirt than a blouse.” Sleeveless tops are fine but should be kept under a jacket during the day. She recommends light colors — white, light yellow, light blue — with some pieces in brighter colors such as teal or red as professional accents.

• Shopping list: Two cotton non-iron blouses, $49 each

Shoes

You’ll need a closed-toe pump. Also look for a boot shoe to wear with trousers. No open toes, sling backs or stilettos.

• Shopping list: Black leather closed-toe pump: $80

Accessories

Jewelry should be on a medium scale, neither too big nor too tiny. If your earrings are bigger than your eyes, pick out a smaller pair.

• Shopping list: Small leather purse: $125

• Additional shopping items: Black microfiber all-weather coat: $250